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3DPFadmin
11-29-2013, 09:58 PM
Let see what everyone is building....

Kulitorum
12-19-2013, 01:44 AM
I made 7 3d printers. The last one is a copy of a ultimaker - the best one yet.

I like to print fast....

http://www.youtube.com/user/KulitorumCom

Les
12-19-2013, 04:01 AM
Hi,
Love the new site. I'm not building yet, still gathering info.
Speaking of which, what plastic gives the best (smoothest) finish?
Les

cgosnell
12-19-2013, 08:13 AM
I am working with our local robotics club to help some middle/high school kids build their first Mendel Prusa (http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel_(iteration_2)).
We had looked into making a 1x2 repstrap machine to build parts for our Mendel, but in the end I thought this might be a bit to frustrating for the kids and I might lose their attention.

Problems / Issues so far:
1) Bought a Sanguinolulu (http://reprap.org/wiki/Sanguinololu) board off of Ebay.
Needed to flash a bootloader on the board.
I was lucky enough to find a circuit and instructions for using an Arduino Uno as the ICSP and they worked great. We then put Marlin (http://reprap.org/wiki/Marlin) software on the board to run the printer and read the G-codes.
2) Bought all of the Reprap metal/printed parts off of Amazon / Ebay.
A couple of the printed parts we warped badly, mainly the X-end parts. We had to bore out the rod holes straight, and the Hex nut guides for the z-axis rods were also warped. We ended up 'cracking' the X-end parts, assembling them straight, and then using JB Weld to keep everything in good alignment until we can print new ones.
3) Bought a hot end with extruder from Ebay (China).
The extruder seems to be well built and OK, but the temp probe is a type K thermocouple, not a Thermistor. This means I have to buy a $15 AD595 amp chip from Sparkfun to interface to the Marlin software on the Sanguinolulu board. We are waiting for the amp to come in to test this out.

We also will be looking into any config settings we need to tune to the Marlin software to run the Reprap. We plan on using Repetier (http://www.repetier.com/) to run the printer from the PC, and may get an LCD screen / SD card reader for standalone operation in the near future.

We will be meeting over the holidays to get the printer done, and try some test prints. In the end, all of the team members will get the printer to use to print parts for their own printer, if they want to. BTW, RadioShack is having (had) a sale on PLA for about 1/2 their normal price. Check it out.

We are already looking at better X axis part designs that may warp less when printed, and also remotely mounting the extruder motor to get some weight out of the print head. I like the design done by MOST (http://www.appropedia.org/MOST_RepRap_Primer) on their Repraps.

The goal is to have the kids discover that they can actually make this device and it will work, and work well. I hope the value of Open Source Hardware and software is not lost to them and they will contribute to improving the designs as well.

Good luck to others building similar printers. Next we would like to make a printer that uses three extruders, each with a different color, to mix the colors as they melt and print parts in any color needed. This is not my original idea, I believe I saw something about this on MAKE or maybe Youtube, and it is a cool idea.

Bx3mE
12-19-2013, 08:29 AM
Im building a add on to a CNC Router using Bulldog and Merlin for ABS PLA and Nylon and will begin my experiments using 1.75mm black PLA. I dont have the router yet but to mage most use of mashine and since noise levels are restricted except between 9am and 3pm i plan to use it for 3DPrinting when not routing :)
(I also plan to use the mashine for dragging knife cutting - lol)
Extruder arriving in my mail in early jan and router maybe mid january if airmail gets to expensive.

Mjolinor
12-19-2013, 09:05 AM
I am adding a hot end to my PCB mill. Much rebuilding as the Z axis only had 25mm, it now has about 70mm which I figure is enough.

Made a hot end and am currently thinking about the pushing mechanism for the filament.

Sorted the temperature with a thermistor, that was a dog to do because implementing the thermistor equations in PIC assembler was hard.

That is all working fine now and the PIC sends the temperature out over RS232.

I have to get LinuxCNC to take that temperature from the serial port of the PC and do something with it. The mechanics, hardware and low level programming isn't a problem but I truly suck at C and am even worse in Python but I'll get there eventually.

dietzc
12-19-2013, 09:09 AM
Hi,
Love the new site. I'm not building yet, still gathering info.
Speaking of which, what plastic gives the best (smoothest) finish?
Les

Are you looking for a smooth finish right off the machine, or do you plan to paint? I use ABS and scuff it with sandpaper and then do finish work with a glaze coat automotive body filler, it's more liquidy than regular body filler. After that I prime with a polyurethane paint and use it as a positive in a mold making application.

old_man
12-19-2013, 09:17 AM
I work with 3d printers in conjunction with my test engineering job. I am also a machinist and have my own CNC shop. I am building a LARGE 2'x2'x4' unit at the present. It will have two heads (one for scaffolding). I am also almost finished with a high temp filament extruder for Ultem.

MatthewBasaraba
12-19-2013, 12:06 PM
Like Old_Man I am building a larger than normal printer, 18" cubed. Extruded aluminum for the frame, 10mm linear rails for X and Y, twin ball screws for Z. I am using 220 oz steppers, this will allow me to swap out the extruder for an engraver or small mill.

All my brackets are machined and the extrusion came in today so it can start assembly over the weekend.

Still waiting on my linear bearings and ramps kit I ordered.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

jim_r53
12-19-2013, 08:31 PM
I am working on my first printer - a Prusa Mendel I2. It has ended up as more of DIY than a kit than I expected. So, it has taken quite a bit longer than I expected when other home projects out prioritized the time. Next step is wiring the electronics and getting it all to work.

Joe Kumanchik
12-19-2013, 08:32 PM
I am converting a DIY CNC router to accommodate an extruder. I currently use Mach3 as my control software and downloaded a script to convert printer ready G-code to be compatible . I just purchased an extruder and the parts to make the hot bed. Stay tuned for updates

Kyo
12-20-2013, 03:33 AM
Not building yet myself, just started researching ( perfect timing for this forum :) thanks. ) But I am leaning towards building a Eventorbot or MendelMax 2.0 now the source files have been released.. They both fit my current space constraints for tools. Otherwise I would love to build a Delta machine with a larger build volume. But atlast still in research mode, probaly intell next summer.

Bx3mE
12-20-2013, 07:34 AM
I am converting a DIY CNC router to accommodate an extruder. I currently use Mach3 as my control software and downloaded a script to convert printer ready G-code to be compatible . I just purchased an extruder and the parts to make the hot bed. Stay tuned for updates

How do you plan to manage temperature control of hot end and bed? From PC/Mach3 ?

Joe Kumanchik
12-20-2013, 08:31 AM
I will be using two stand alone temp controllers with PID capabilities and K type thermocouples for feedback. My thought is to plug the build table heater into an outlet on my system that is controlled by coolant commands. I use this now for vacuum control. I will simply insert the g-code command to turn off the build table heater after the first couple of layers are printed. The Nozzle heat will be manual for now but depending in how fast it heats, I may use the spindle on/off control. That's my plan anyway

Bx3mE
12-20-2013, 08:36 AM
I will be using two stand alone temp controllers with PID capabilities and K type thermocouples for feedback. My thought is to plug the build table heater into an outlet on my system that is controlled by coolant commands. I use this now for vacuum control. I will simply insert the g-code command to turn off the build table heater after the first couple of layers are printed. The Nozzle heat will be manual for now but depending in how fast it heats, I may use the spindle on/off control. That's my plan anyway

If you find a good solution please update! :P
Im still looking for a solution as i have not found any which i feel is satisfying and im in no rush as my mechanics will not be moving the hot end around for another month or so...

Joe Kumanchik
12-20-2013, 08:48 AM
I will. My goal is to be able to quickly swap my machine between a CNC router an 3D printer with an interchangeable mount on the Z axis and a couple of cable connections.

watsonstudios
12-20-2013, 11:29 AM
I'm building a DLP resin printer. The mechanics are pretty much finished, just waiting on someone to produce a good, low shrinkage resin. It's frame is 8020 extrusion, very simple, minimal layout. Using a $150 (ebay) Mitsubishi projector at 1024x768 resolution. My build area is 4.5" x 6" with about 6" z height. It was basically built as a test bed. Once I knew the concept was viable, I would build it into a more enclosed structure.

It prints very well but the weak link is the resin. You can print action figures and organic stuff all day but to print accurate, mechanical parts is not quite there due to the resin that's currently available. A couple of the resin suppliers I know are working on less-shrinkage resins that will hopefully work for more mechanical parts.
128129130131

watsonstudios
12-20-2013, 11:53 AM
Here's a few more pics of some parts. I hit a couple of the parts with some grey primer to see the details you can't see when printing with transparent resin.

133134135136

3DPFadmin
12-20-2013, 12:54 PM
Hi,
Love the new site. I'm not building yet, still gathering info.
Speaking of which, what plastic gives the best (smoothest) finish?
Les


I think ABS, it can be sanded and finished.

MatthewBasaraba
12-20-2013, 06:14 PM
Hi,
Love the new site. I'm not building yet, still gathering info.
Speaking of which, what plastic gives the best (smoothest) finish?
Les

I have 3 rolls of ABS that will gather dust, I much prefer printing with PLA. I had a lot of trouble keeping it to stick all the way to the ends of my builds even with trying several different types of coverings for my build plate.

PLA, a piece of glass and some hair spray and it comes out perfect every time. Keep your bed cooler, 50C and extruder at 230 for large parts, 220 for smaller (make sure to put some cooling layers in on VERY small parts), .2 layer height and you will never be disappointed. I have printed hundreds of parts with PLA (Around 30 with ABS and never had a single part not pull up on the ends) and every one came out awesome.

rlwoodjr
12-20-2013, 06:37 PM
I am working on a kit I am calling RP9

This is an attempt to create a simple cost effective design. The objective is to create a kit that has all the hardware needed for xyz motion. Steppers, electronics , and an extruder can be added to complete the printer

5 ply 6 mm plywood construction
8 mm steel shafts for linear motion
8 mm LM8UU bearings
200 mm x 200 mm x 200 mm build area
Spectra fishing line drive
Fabricate mechanical hardware in less than 2 hours
Completely Open Source
Minimal part count

Wes296
12-21-2013, 03:36 PM
Just finished building my delta printer!

Currently testing all the settings and looking at cooling filament within the hotend and also printed filament too.

All the printed parts were printed by a friend, I like the idea of a 3D printer printing another 3D printer! so currently my goal is to print another 3D printer as a spare for me or to give to a family member.

Still a long way to go yet though!

145

Gadget
12-23-2013, 10:56 AM
I will. My goal is to be able to quickly swap my machine between a CNC router an 3D printer with an interchangeable mount on the Z axis and a couple of cable connections.

I did that for my CNC table. Worked out very well and the change takes less than 5 minutes. I can also swap out the functions to plasma cutter and hot wire foam cutting.

Mjolinor
12-23-2013, 12:34 PM
I did that for my CNC table. Worked out very well and the change takes less than 5 minutes. I can also swap out the functions to plasma cutter and hot wire foam cutting.

So what do you drive it with? I am stuck between making LinuxCNC drive the extruder and heater from a simple temperature input or if I should buy one of the existing OS systems like REPRAP.

Patrick2by4
12-23-2013, 11:37 PM
Just ordered the motors and various parts from robotdigg. I plan on building a reprap Prusa i3 (1/2 plywood boxbeam version). I already built the box beam and thinking of buying the plastic parts to assemble the machine on the box beam. I was wondering if anyone has good advice on which controller board/drivers I should get? I haven't decided on that yet. Would prefer to have the electronics already assembled.

Mike94531
12-27-2013, 12:34 PM
Nice machine, my next build will be a delta design for sure, I don't need that style, I just want it so I can watch it!

What better reason? :)

Michael of Burien
12-27-2013, 07:34 PM
I'm working on adding a Print head to my CNC Router.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcIlXR7eJx8

verga
12-28-2013, 09:09 PM
Just finished building my delta printer!

Currently testing all the settings and looking at cooling filament within the hotend and also printed filament too.

All the printed parts were printed by a friend, I like the idea of a 3D printer printing another 3D printer! so currently my goal is to print another 3D printer as a spare for me or to give to a family member.

Still a long way to go yet though!

145I thought these would not be ready until June 2014. I joined their "kickstarter" campaign and they said on the site they were not selling beta testing.

Les
12-30-2013, 10:59 PM
Hi Dietzc,
Thanks for the reply. I really hadn't thought too much about that side of it. :rolleyes:
But what you said has made me rethink what I really need as per a 3d machine.
Thanks so much for the help.

stringkilla
01-02-2014, 11:02 AM
Almost done. I am also using my c.n.c. gantry router with a Spider extruder from Rockcliff Inc. I will use it as an accessory to the machine as a quick change too. I am using Mach 3 and maybe Kisslicer 32. My main issue is how to set up my heated bed. I have a MK 1 plate and a glass plate and a power supply. I want to use a dimmer switch to control the temps but don't know how to wire it up. Can anyone help a nubie with his bed. L.O.L.

Gadget
01-03-2014, 08:18 AM
So what do you drive it with? I am stuck between making LinuxCNC drive the extruder and heater from a simple temperature input or if I should buy one of the existing OS systems like REPRAP.
I'm using LinuxCNC for all functions. I have a separate configuration of it for 3D and the remaining functions. For temp control I just use a PID independent from LinuxCNC. Sorry for the late response, I missed your post.

ShuttleSpace
01-03-2014, 09:33 AM
I have a 48x96 ShopBot, I don't see any issues with putting a spool type feed on this if anyone can suggest the best starter package.

Mjolinor
01-03-2014, 09:56 PM
I'm using LinuxCNC for all functions. I have a separate configuration of it for 3D and the remaining functions. For temp control I just use a PID independent from LinuxCNC. Sorry for the late response, I missed your post.

Any chance of posting your HAL and INI files and any custom PY you have in there?

Michael of Burien
01-04-2014, 10:33 PM
Upgraded, screws, bearings and higher voltage drivers. Much faster now.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH_ugMZhDU4&feature=c4-overview&list=UUdoZac6Ah0y3c9KW-vN0XTw

cwalker1960
01-13-2014, 04:16 PM
Upgraded, screws, bearings and higher voltage drivers. Much faster now.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH_ugMZhDU4&feature=c4-overview&list=UUdoZac6Ah0y3c9KW-vN0XTw

Take a word of advice from someone who has done it.... there is no such thing as a universal cnc machine... I personally own a 3d printer that I built from scratch ,( no plans) ,, a cnc plasma table that I built ( again no plans) ,, and a cnc mill that I rebuilt (old bridgeport clone).. while it might be entirely possible to make a cnc router do 3d printing in abs or pla ,, it is totally impractical.. my 3d printer runs at 50 mm a second.. and that is slow compared to some ... there is an excessively high limit as to how fast an extruder can squeeze melted plastic out of a nozzle and it is way beyond what a cnc router can keep up with... that being said , if the plastic isn't extruded fast enough it starts to melt up the barrel.. When it does, it expands and causes jams ,, as all of us that do this have already experienced.. save yourself some heartache and build a 3d printer designed to extrude plastic.

cwalker1960
01-13-2014, 04:59 PM
Upgraded, screws, bearings and higher voltage drivers. Much faster now.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TH_ugMZhDU4&feature=c4-overview&list=UUdoZac6Ah0y3c9KW-vN0XTw
Sorry i meant to say 150 mm per second .. and other things that go wrong printing too slow is the first layer cools too much before the second or whatever layer is layed on top of it will not adhere,, (layer separation) not to even get into the warping issues you will encounter.

Mjolinor
01-14-2014, 12:17 AM
Take a word of advice from someone who has done it.... there is no such thing as a universal cnc machine... I personally own a 3d printer that I built from scratch ,( no plans) ,, a cnc plasma table that I built ( again no plans) ,, and a cnc mill that I rebuilt (old bridgeport clone).. while it might be entirely possible to make a cnc router do 3d printing in abs or pla ,, it is totally impractical.. my 3d printer runs at 50 mm a second.. and that is slow compared to some ... there is an excessively high limit as to how fast an extruder can squeeze melted plastic out of a nozzle and it is way beyond what a cnc router can keep up with... that being said , if the plastic isn't extruded fast enough it starts to melt up the barrel,, up barrel.. When it does, it expands and causes jams ,, as all of us that do this have already experienced.. save yourself some heartache and build a 3d printer designed to extrude plastic.

That is the information I spent ages looking for and it's nowhere, it was one of the reservations I had about the whole mill conversion thing. Like I didn't have enough to think about already.

cwalker1960
01-14-2014, 06:05 AM
I have no ties or affiliations with any company so I feel I am able to give out unbiased information.
Since I have built my own printer and already got past the growing pains of making it work I would be honored to help others going that direction. I didn't really document my build so I might have a little trouble with specifics but I have gained a ton of information and knowledge through it all that may save others the despair of trail and error. There was a lot less information out there 2 years ago when I built mine and a lot was left to just be worked out by the builder..
I would say that I am biased to certain things because it's what I used thus what I know about. for instance I am partial to ramps electronics. there are other electronics out there that one could use that may be just as good. I personally don't know how good they are. i use marlin firmware again there are others.. i use Cura for processing , And I have tried others , I find Cura to be quick and easy Whichever slicing software you decide to go with make sure they have an active help forum, You will encounter enough problems without having to worry about software. and building a perfect machine will be absolutely useless without proper tuning . Loose belts , backlash, unlevel build platforms will never make it in the 3d printing area. the bed has to be level within 2 thousandths or you will never get a decent print .. now keep in mind level is relative to the printhead I can lay the machine on it's side and it'll still print fine. it's so close that I actually use a sheet of paper to adjust the bed to the printhead at all 4 corners of the bed.. any closer the extruder can't let plastic out, you have a jam and stripped filament any further away and the plastic won't stick to the bed and the head just drags a wad of plastic around with it. most of us print on a sheet of glass for absolute flatness. If i can help ,just ask and i'll try.

cwalker1960
01-14-2014, 06:59 AM
belt drive is definitely the way to go for a printer.. leadscrews will be way too slow and by time you adjust out all the backlash will be too tight and too wear prone to ever make a reliable printer.. ballscrews will carry too much mass to move at the speeds needed and the cost is outrageous for a 3d printer.
keep all your moving masses as light and as rigid as possible. plastic works well here. remember you're not cutting you're only moving a head around laying down layers of plastic. repeatability within 10ths of millimeters is an absolute necessity for decent prints.. belts for x and y and threaded rod for z axis.. z axis can be slow ,, there are thoughts that metric threaded rod is best so that it will work out with even steps to the layer height of the print (they say that the oscillations from uneven step count shows up in the print). I personally used standard threaded rod (12/32 i think) and haven't noticed any problems but most of my printing is done at .2mm layer height, if you want better resolution it might be wise to use metric threaded rod . most software (if not all) for 3d printers are in metric , might as well face it embrace it and get used to converting.
use at least 40ozinch steppers for your x and y axis ,, z axis can be smaller if need be. ebay is a great source for used steppers and ramps electronics.. and other parts that you will need for your printer as well. those who already have a cnc router will be ahead of the game , i did , and I used mine to make nearly all the parts for my printer.. believe it or not,, out of plastic cutting boards from wally world. I was fortunate that I had a lot of linear bearings and rod around that I had gathered from old plotters and past projects to use for my build,, belts too but i had to buy steppers as the plotters i had used servos and I didn't have the time or patience to figure out how to drive them. the one thing and most critical is the extruder itself... that you may have trouble making... I bought my first one to get me started ,, I have since designed and built my own that works a 100 times better than the one I bought..
on this subject i can talk extensively. cuz a shitty extruder will make you pull your hair out.. I know,, I'm bald now ,, just kidding ,, not bald.. but it can make you insane.. again tuning is of the utmost importance,, temperatures and feed speeds have to be near perfect for everything to work right,, pick one type of plastic ,, pla or abs ,, pick one color from one vender and stick with it till you make it work,, and by all means make sure it s a reputable filament supplier. even color differences make things change.. after you have it working then you can start experimenting with different materials and different colors and different suppliers.. If you going with abs ,(my choice) you will have to use a heated bed or build platform (whichever you prefer to call it) warping and not adhering to the platform are 2 major problems with abs.. pla is notorious for jamming in the hot end as it swells as it is heated and heat creeping up the barrel will cause it to become plastic quickly,, which is one of the reasons a 3d printer needs to move so fast,,
no matter should you decide to buy or build your 3d printer you will most assuredly have an interesting first day when trying to run it.

cwalker1960
01-14-2014, 07:19 AM
It feels good to finally be able to give some advice ,, I relied heavily on other peoples information when I was building my 3d printer and when I was building my plasma table... I just want to thank everyone that helped me out while I was building.

cwalker1960
01-14-2014, 07:27 AM
I have a lot of trial and error under my belt now .. I don't think it's appropriate to advertise for any company or criticize any company ( this could lead to increased or decreased revenue based on one persons opinion) in a forum but if anyone wants to pm me , I can tell you what I've tried that didn't work for me and what i use that does work for me and cheapest places to obtain it from. You know the old addage "bad news travels fast" and I would hate to kill someones livelihood based solely on my personal opinion.

cwalker1960
01-14-2014, 07:43 AM
I did that for my CNC table. Worked out very well and the change takes less than 5 minutes. I can also swap out the functions to plasma cutter and hot wire foam cutting.
I would love to see it doing all of these different things ,, and the finished product of each operation

Wes296
02-12-2014, 11:36 AM
I thought these would not be ready until June 2014. I joined their "kickstarter" campaign and they said on the site they were not selling beta testing.

I made this myself it's not a kick starter campaign.

Thanks!

Cheffli
02-12-2014, 01:06 PM
I would also like to add a extruder to my cnc router, but i think the movement of the cnc is to slow.
Has anybody experience with this?

jtb223
02-12-2014, 03:54 PM
I'm a long way from building my own 3D printer (I'm wasting my time and money on multirotor copters right now) but I would very much like to see pictures or drawings of some of the assemblies you guys have built. I'm particularly interested in the hot end that cwalker1960 references. Please post details. And mr. walker, thanks for the invaluable advice. Your input on motor size, material choice, tolerances, software, etc. are just the kind of things i've considered.

rckid
02-12-2014, 06:36 PM
although the printr bot simple doesn't have a heat bed its 200 bucks and you could buy a bed for 10 to 20 dollars

beverageexpert
02-12-2014, 07:35 PM
344I am working on 2 rostock minis
1 working with belts and 1 working with spectra line

I am also working on an extended taz printer which should be printing in about an hour343
that is a 24 inch level by the way

Shn ED
02-12-2014, 08:05 PM
one of my HS students is helping me build a Ceramic Delta printer!
Jonathan Keep, Self build Delta 3D printer (http://www.keep-art.co.uk/Self_build.html)

cadsculptor
02-13-2014, 05:47 AM
just waiting on someone to produce a good, low shrinkage resin.


Is the shrink consistent along the X, Y, Z axes? If so, you might be able to scale the part up by the shrink rate to ge more accurate parts (that's how injection molds are made)

Paul

bmartensson
02-13-2014, 06:17 AM
Building my first 3D-printer a Mendelmax 1.5. Frame and mechanics almost finished, cables, electronics next.

cguy09
02-13-2014, 07:46 AM
I have a two CNC router machines. Thinking of keeping the smaller one and converting it to 3Dprinting. Following the discussions here with great interest. Time will tell...

sexstrap
02-13-2014, 09:51 AM
Currently building a large mendel 90, 400mm cubed volume build area in 5mm Ali, for a friend.
It is slow progress as I dont have a CNC large enough to cut the Ali and I am waiting for quotes to come back.

This will be my 3rd 3D printer to date since 2011.

Graham

jtb223
02-13-2014, 01:51 PM
The TAZ looks great. When I get around to building a 3D printer this is the one I would like to build. If you have any links, a BOM or any other details that you would be willing to provide, I would be most grateful. I already have some material but more is always better.

Thanks,
Jim

beverageexpert
02-14-2014, 12:51 PM
jim
for the BAT ( Big Ass Taz) I only had to change the main build plate to extend it and I added acme rods which I made a different z motor spring for my nuts
Lulzbot TAZ Z NUT Spring for 10x2 Acme Threaded Rods by beverageexpert - Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:240606)
I am in the process of changing the z drive to a cable system though
should be done in a few days on that and then I can say goodbye forever to z wobble

rckid
02-16-2014, 10:31 AM
although the printr bot simple doesn't have a heat bed its 200 bucks and you could buy a bed for 10 to 20 dollars

Im sorry its 300 not 200

jtb223
02-16-2014, 06:56 PM
Thanks beverageexpert. nice part design. did you build your own Budaschnozzle? the design looks kind of simple. I can find good detail on the rev 1.3 and the 2.0 looks like it just has a better heat sink.

jmkissell
02-26-2014, 05:12 PM
Currently working on my 4th printer. It is a Bukito clone with a few modifications.
I first saw this model on kickstarter made by deezmaker.
Simple little printer but works really good.

tolemo
02-27-2014, 12:45 AM
I built a printer but I guess I am a bit intimidated about the software and electronics . The electronics sit in a pile waiting to be wired up. I just took a gander at the photos I put on thingiverse and realized I built it in 2012 and haven't made any progress since then. Bitsa Aluminum RepStrap by tolemo - Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30135)

dodzio24
02-27-2014, 03:37 AM
HI.
I'm about to build my new project - milling machine /3D printer/laser combo.
I have build machines in past but never combo ones so that will be some challenge.
I know that 3D printer and laser like to be move fast so im looking for parts that will do all of them.
At the moment i have ordered parts , so i can build milling machine and then i will modified that machine.
I want to be able connect and disconnect heads - milling head - 3d printer head and laser head.
Im probably looking for to much but you never know maybe will work.i will post my progress.

Some specs.
frame - 1400 mm x 850 mm foot print all 40x80 aluminium profile.
high around 650 mm.
i have ordered new screws for all axis - 16 mm with 10 mm pitch,hopefully that will be fast enough for 3D printing and laser.
Motors and drivers- nema 23 stepper motor 3Nm each+ Extruder ,driver M542H - 4,2A a phase,36V.
All axes on supported 16mm rails and linear bearings.
Spindle 1,5KW.

With 3d printer head im not sure yet,i was thinking to make my own design with printing head and heated bed.
I don't really like plastic extruders so my will be make from aluminium probably.
About bed,i cant find big enough for my project so i will need make my own.

About laser head,well that will be real challenge ,never done one so not gonna be easy.

Im still not sure what firmware and software i will use for 3D,laser.
For mill will be Mach3 or maybe something alse.
Or maybe there is some software that will work with my combo machine ?

If anybody have any suggestions,please let me know.

rsm5178
03-05-2014, 10:18 PM
Completed stage 1: Deciding on an Ord Bot and just finished building the Ord Bot mechanical platform. (Much more sturdy than the plywood makerbots I used to mess with back in school.)

Stage 2: Researching extruders and electronics..... Has anyone used the Sainsmart 3D printing "kit" (Mega, RAMPS, Motors, LCD, hotbed,...+ everything..)? Does anyone recommend an extruder for ABS & PLA? (Please PM me to keep from ruining the thread)

-Rich

Joe Kumanchik
03-31-2014, 04:28 PM
OK Just finished my CNC router upgrade to a 3D printer. My machine is a DIY project using a mix of 80/20 aluminum extrusion and custom machined aluminum for the frame with a table size of 2' x 4' all controled with Mach3. I chose to use Automation Direct stepper controllers and motors. Not the cheapest way to go but rock solid. I needed to add a forth axis and a couple to temp controllers to get the machine to operate as a 3D printer, one for the extruder and one for the build table. The machine can be swapped between 3D printer and router in about 5 minutes. I shut down my control box, close Mach3, flip a selector switch to enable the temp control system, remove the spindle, clamp on the extruder, open Mech3 in 3D profile, and power up my control box. The temp controllers are Automation Direct as well and use K type thermocuuples. Currently I am setting and operating the extruder temp manually. The build plate temp is set manully but is turned on and off using the flood output in Mach3. My next step is to add an input that montiors when the extruder reaches target temp to start the program.

Halfdone
04-01-2014, 11:02 PM
Just finished the preliminary build of a scratch build Delta loosely taken from the Kossel design. I am printing parts in ABS but dealing with some quality issues (lifting corners) and am about to try PLA. I tend to be a perfectionist so I am looking for nice quality prints before I complete the setup and clean up all of my loose wires and bits.

Like some have pointed out, I settled on the Delta style simply because it looks cool when running. As for functionality I would suggest starting with a simpler design. It has taken a lot of late nights trying to figure out the details from the scraps of info I can gleam from the internet.

RodolfoE
04-07-2014, 05:47 PM
Let see what everyone is building....

Hi,

I am starting to build my first printer. Print size will be 300mm x 450mm x 300mm. Will be sharing with you more information from time to time as I progress with my project.

Papakel
04-15-2014, 03:01 PM
I have built a CNC router last year with a bed size of 800 x 600 mainly useing MDF and timber and I successfully use Mach3 software to control that, and this year I have built a 3d printer after viewing the youtube blog on the everbot, I have built the machine using MDF for the framework and under bed, ball bearing slides from an old photo copier for the Z axis screw operated, ball bearing draw runners for the X axis, belt driven with an old inkjet printer belt and pulleys, and the Y axis again belt driven from another old printer and sliding on 8mm rods from the two old inkjet printers that I dismantled. I bought the stepper motors from ebay the hot bed from think3dprinters a sanguiniololu kit from ebay which I built up and I am using Pronterface to print direct from the computor with medium success though I am having some software problems. Needless to say I have plenty of spare time being retired

terryd15
04-24-2014, 02:49 AM
Hi,

My second post as a newcomer to 3D printing. I've just completed a DIY build Prusa i3 box frame printer. I did buy my electronics - ramps 1.4 on an Arduino mega - as I managed to get a complete kit on an eBay auction from Gadgets 3D for just over 30 GBP (just over 50 USD) for a complete electronics kit including sensors, stepper drivers and a set of connecting leads as well as the Arduino and ramps shield. I note that Gadgets 3D appear not to sell on eBay now and the equivalent kit to mine now sells at 129 USD on their own web site.

Apart from that I bought metal and fasteners locally and bearings, hotbed and motors off eBay. the idlers and carriages as well as brackets were designed by myself to be made in 6mm plywood, similar to the ones provided by Makerfarm in their i3 kits but mine rely on interlocking tabs rather than the nut and machine screw construction favoured by them. I made my own J head hotend and peek isolating sleeve in my small home workshop using the design from the RepRap website.

I've been printing now for a couple of weeks (using ABS) on a glass sheet on a hotbed and have had pleasing successes as well as some failures but am learning fast. I use files downloaded from sources such as Thingiverse as well as designing my own in Creo Elements as free 3D parametric CAD program which can produce STL files. The firmware I use is Marlin combined with Slicer to produce the necessary Gcode. As I'm new to this site I'm not sure about posting pictures but if I get the chance I'll do so soon.

Terry

terryd15
04-24-2014, 03:39 AM
This is a test to try attaching pictures - my complete extruder with a homemade J-Head hot end and sleeve, The printer (before tidying up wiring) test printing and some results so far.

596
Printer test printing it's first print - cable chain parts.

592
J-Head extruder, home made hot end and sleeve

593
Component box designed in Creo Elements and sliced in Slic3r

594
Assembled Box

595
Prusa i3 printed parts ready for next printer!

terryd15
04-24-2014, 04:00 AM
Duplicate post, sorry.

tom o
04-25-2014, 01:57 PM
Just finished the preliminary build of a scratch build Delta loosely taken from the Kossel design. I am printing parts in ABS but dealing with some quality issues (lifting corners) and am about to try PLA. I tend to be a perfectionist so I am looking for nice quality prints before I complete the setup and clean up all of my loose wires and bits.

Like some have pointed out, I settled on the Delta style simply because it looks cool when running. As for functionality I would suggest starting with a simpler design. It has taken a lot of late nights trying to figure out the details from the scraps of info I can gleam from the internet.

Well this may be just a brainfart but I think it has merit : the problem is the upper layers are contracting lifting it off the build platform before it can recieve enough material to remain stable and flat. What I would like to know is has anyone tryed blowing hot air across the build to heat the contracting fillement being layed down untill there is enough strenth for rigidity? What do you think plasable?

ShuttleSpace
04-25-2014, 03:27 PM
I'd suggested using post-form plastic laminate over the platform, the back of it is porous.
It has a grain and naturally curves along it.
Only 1/32" and it handles heat well. It would need to be clamped down on the edges.
No printer yet, so feedback will be appreciated.

MrSuperSidewinder
04-26-2014, 11:15 AM
Preparing myself to build my first 3d printer, I cannot help but wonder what direction the electronics will go.. After much research it seems that many agree the age of arduino as the controller is nearly over. So where will it go from here?? Most folks agree that the Arduino's have been pushed to their limits and soon multiple extruder heads like the 'Kracken' will create the need for 7 or eight axes to be controlled. So I am confused a bit as to where things will go from here. 8 bit controllers haven't the horsepower and the available 32 bit controllers lack sufficient IO. 32 bit controllers include Smoothieboard, Azteeg X5, and Beagle Bone Black/BeBopr Cape, none of which are quite prepared for this next step. Perhaps we should abandon conventional thinking and center the future around a micro ATX MOBO at the heart of a modular system running Linux CNC (free, capable of running 9 Axes, IK ready...). It is very cool that 8 bit boards have gotten this all going but it is NOT the future. But I digress and will begin building a full size Delta Similar in size to a Kossel Pro or BerryBot, With my own version of 4 head extruder with mixer option. Electronics will be left for last as I research further into realistic options. It seems like everything is coming together except for the electronics. Multi heads (Kracken) and mixer heads, The developer of Slic3r and others are working on multicolor object formats for them, perhaps no one is willing to break the existing software chain to prep for the future but such a growing pain may well be necessary, THOUGHTS??

ShuttleSpace
04-27-2014, 07:18 AM
That's a lot of info. You seem to be a trend-setter.
I suggest posting some more details, links, pictures about the project to get everyone up to speed. Thanks.

REPRAP SQUAD
06-05-2014, 11:49 AM
This is my current build. I have a custom built printrbot plus v2 dual extruder hybrid and I like the design a lot. So I decided to take it to the next level and build it the way I would. I started out replacing the Birchwood parts with aluminum milled parts. The majority of this build is out of aluminum.

I'm getting close to being finished. After it's completed I will start testing it out but I've recently decided to make it a dual extruder setup as well.

You can also check out pictures and a build log on my site: www.reprapsquad.worspress.com

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/06/yma4apu7.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/06/abuzu7es.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/06/a8ejasy7.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/06/ugusy9yp.jpg


Www.reprapsquad.wordpress.com

REPRAP SQUAD
07-06-2014, 06:59 PM
@He3d99 - Plz quit spamming. If you want to advertise, plz post in the correct location. Constant spamming like this will ruin forums like this one. Ruining a forum would be bad for your business. I've come across multiple forums that you spam on. Please stop.


Check out our site: www.RepRapSquad.WordPress.com

twistyme
11-02-2014, 07:39 PM
I wondered why the motor was attached to the printing head assembly when it doesnt need to be. This only adds to the weight the X motors have to propel the hotend carriage across the parallel bars. Why do you think no-one else has made such an obvious adaptation to the setup? I built my own Reprap I2 machine and felt I'd done pretty well given that a) Ive never done this before (Meccano doesnt count tho it's not a bad practice ground when youre 8yr old, you never forget!) and some of the parts supplied werent cut to fit the exact requirements for perpendicular or parallel threaded rods, also, some of the plastics werent printed well either as they were aligned so at to maximise the splitting effect of applying assembly pressure in line with the 'grain' which is a fairly avoidable mistake. Ive had my i2 for several months and like so many others still can't get all components working though Ive seen everything but the Extruder heat up and there's no problem getting items loaded to the software and sliced and Gcode followed onscreen, getting the printer to join in is a nightmare. If I were to build another printer in the future though I'd go Mega size plate and a suitcase-like folding assembly. it's how they should be built, not as they are which when you look at it with a completely unfairly critical eye is a bit rubbish! It's an obvious rigid framed fold & click-lock structure waiting to have not happened until very recently :) Anyway, hush my mouth until I can get all the firmware settings and control software to drive the bloody thing and show me some goo. Good luck with your projects.

cooltip
11-03-2014, 08:29 AM
It feels good to finally be able to give some advice ,, I relied heavily on other peoples information when I was building my 3d printer and when I was building my plasma table... I just want to thank everyone that helped me out while I was building.

Is it too late to question your postings?
All machines, no matter how light, have inertia, so hitting speeds of 150mm/sec without some sort of start/acceleration being applied would cause problems.
Now, if your interpreter software does have start/acceleration in the setup menu, I think they all must, then on producing small parts you will never reach 150mm/sec because your machine will still be accelerating.
Regards.

AutoWiz
09-06-2016, 04:33 PM
Here is the printer I have been building..

http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/AutoWiz/5_40.jpg (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/AutoWiz/media/5_40.jpg.html)
http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/AutoWiz/6_32.jpg (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/AutoWiz/media/6_32.jpg.html)
http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/AutoWiz/3_43.jpg (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/AutoWiz/media/3_43.jpg.html)
http://i1050.photobucket.com/albums/s405/AutoWiz/4_41.jpg (http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/AutoWiz/media/4_41.jpg.html)

...and yes I know how old this thread is

MicroMill
09-16-2016, 11:15 PM
I'm about half way through building my first 3D Printer. The SeeMeCNC Rostock V3. Just got it last week, and taking my time working on the build. Excellent documentation and their Customer Support seems to be terrific.

MicroMill